AJ Miller makes pizza in a San Diego apartment. Not a restaurant, not a backyard oven, not a truck — a home kitchen, a steel, and an oven that has to be talked into doing something it was never built for.

The style borrows from two places at once: New York for the sixteen-inch, foldable, thin-and-crispy shape, New Haven for the char and the pecorino. That combination is the whole trick, and getting it out of a domestic oven took a long stretch of ruined Saturdays.

The drops came later, once more people wanted a pie than there were pies. There is a limit of one per customer, because there is one oven. The videos are the front door. The pizza is the point.